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http://casamarela.moonfruit.com
http://www.surfcamppt.com
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They were already taking measures and combing avidly on my board when the phone rang Private Paradise ...
'-You? Look ... the little one has a fever ... going to the doctor with her ...?'
'-It shovel ... I'm actually dress ... '
'-Well ... is little fever but I'm in London and can not go to love ... '
'"I'll just take a quick starters and I will see you there ...'
I took the fact it was not fall into temptation, fell into the water and surfed heartless - which I confess to be quite trigger 'cruelly'. The sea was great and glass, the board was small and I was not there. I made four waves and left. I dressed hurriedly qd and climbed the staircase, an old childhood friend, a former dealer and now at ease with life - albeit with a few blemishes in the old days of madness - it asks me to go:
'So-mano?? Where are you going to run?? Not gonna leave me here alone with this not swell?? "
'-Fosgasse man, I gotta go there to see how the house is probably the youngest and I go to the hospital for analysis of bullshit ... "
"-Is mine, g'anda Scene! So I will get the board home and stay here waiting for someone appear
that alone will not go there ... '
Swore all the way ... I called all the names from below and more on up there. I do not do anything more than this and now that these waves are a dream stay at home ?!?!? When I get to kindergarten, the little euphoric laugh - perhaps under the influence of newly ingested ibuprofen - I turn to the medical director of pediatrics of Torres Vedras.
"Yeah, yeah ... tou to see who is ... Boavista are the blond right? Forget that ... there which abound in these days are viruses! It's October and are 32 C. .. is not to expect miracles right? If Thursday is still feverish appear but maybe that is nothing ... came here today has more than 100 and not with 37 and peaks ... '
Fuck you right in the diesel and the holes on the dirt road. Sped up like crazy and parked 3 minutes later, just won the Dakar. Bruno was downstairs and a smoke while watching the waves to break against the cliff. I sent him a euphoric whistles!!
'-Puto! C'mon that the kids are already better than both of us together ...!!!!'
'-Fosgasse brother, nor were bafos convince me to go alone ... will be the best '
We started together and we took - the par-serious blow to a succession of average weights, short but intense. The series came to pass the barrier of 2 meters. The water was warm, clear glass and was only momentarily awkward for extreme white foam.
We sat down at the peak and laugh. Fonix!! This all only for us two ?!??!
The rights were still better than the left and I needed to stick his head in order.
Rowed with the physical accuracy of whom spend hours to press your chest against the deck. The wave was just a pipe. I decided to do the obvious and rushed me well behind the peak. Adrenaline flooded my body shiver and typical of those who feel just freeze the veins made me think. All my attention fell on the only path that could turn this moment of uncertainty and possible pain, a state of peace and fulfillment.
I remember going in less than nothing for the feet cm2 that the board asked me and my right hand comb the water thus adding more to ship a rudder. From there ... the silence soon followed the outbreak of the left lip of my way to orchestra in metals. Bruno was screaming and waving type crazy when I passed him. I do not. Vivi static on my mount, only correcting the trajectory with small pressures now at your fingertips now on his heels, sometimes more on the left foot, sometimes more on the right. Then I walked all that immense hall of colors, sounds and life. I looked at the board that remained dry despite incredibly wrapped in heavy seas, and then up. The white foam had changed color and sheer sun roof that was the most beautiful stained glass ... perhaps be reserved for the privileged few, myself included despite recent blasphemy.
The wave has become smaller and went out of their immaculate interior breathed upon by an angel of sweet breath.
Pushing my luck I pointed to the beach and after a bottom has already gone into depth in an effort to rail concave wall that tipped me. Thousands of droplets spread around me and offshore kept me always lucid view even when everything looked like water. It seemed that all at once himself and came back to take the green on my side ... I climbed the hill and let myself sink into the belly against.
The rest of the surfing did not pass the more epic it could ask for. Wave power, right and left, maneuvers, and a line speed that has struck several times by the fins and produce a hissing as traffic squad in excess of landscape and its fine.
We returned to the car almost 3 hours later, exhausted. The stairs seemed to me quite steep but most were calm with me now ... I took leave of Bruno and there we met again today in the same place.
The waves fell by half and had only left. The time between sets was now much bigger and got into the conversation these days ... not turn around, there was 'one of yesterday' to the fore.
I'm all ruptured back. But happy!! Someday I really must get a job ... ;-)
Published by Rudas
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